Monday 31 March 2014

DAY 7: FERRY CROSSING AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF ISLAY

Saturday 27th July

After breakfast and the tricky manoeuvring around the dips and ditches required to evacuate my picturesque hilltop campsite (not really compatible with a 22’ motorhome!), it was a short drive from Corran Farm to the ferry departure point of Kennacraig Port Ferry Terminal.  The impressive Caledonian MacBrayne ferry boat, the ‘Hebridean Islands’ sailed into view and docked and the embarkation procedure swung into action. The queuing vehicles entered up the ramp in single file and disappeared into the bowels of the ship in a sort of conjuring trick, as vans, cars, large articulated lorries, petrol tankers, camper vans, cyclists, motorbikes and foot passengers, were all effortlessly slotted into the available space, cheek by jowl. Bellulu was the last vehicle to board and the ferry immediately set off on time at 9.45am for the sea voyage back along West Loch Tarbert, and into the Sound of Jura. With Ruskin in tow, I left the car deck and made my way to the 4 upper decks which consisted of restaurant, lounge, coffee bar, small shop, information point, toilets and bar. The outer decks had seating for viewing the water and wonderful west coast of Scotland scenery, taking in the sunshine and sea air and blowing the cobwebs away. I was relieved that it was a very calm and smooth crossing as I am a poor sailor (see my post ‘My Great Barrier Grief’ from my Australia trip!) The small Isle of Gigha passed by first, and within an hour or so I had my first views of the islands of Jura with its landmark mountains called The Paps, and then Islay, which was to be our home from home for the next 6 days.  We sailed into the harbour of Port Askaig at 12.10pm to a sunshine welcome. 


The magic of Islay swept me up instantly with a colour palette that seemed intensified and jewel-like; the sea shimmered with dancing reflections and appeared a beautiful shade of blue, the fields that spread down to the white sandy seashores, surely greener than I had ever seen before? This was a special place indeed, and I felt a sense of anticipation at what lay ahead on my first JOURNEY into the heart of the island. It was soon apparent that life on Islay is lived at a leisurely pace; drivers are courteous, locals smile and wave at passers-by, and the contented-looking cattle and curly horned sheep nonchalantly stand in the roads that hug the shoreline, never doubting that vehicles would naturally slow to a standstill and cautiously drive around them.


Fellow road users on Islay!
It was an hour’s drive from Port Askaig to Port Charlotte and the municipal campsite at Port Mor on the edge of the village. Bellulu was soon replenished with water and plugged into the mains electric on a lovely pitch that has panoramic views over Loch Indaal to the other side of the island, and over to the Isle of Jura lying in wait across the calm waters. 
The campsite at Port Mor

Stunning views from the motorhome pitch over Loch Indaal