Fishing for Pearls in Sydney

I arrived at Sydney airport on 23^rd July at 11.30am, and caught the double-decker airport train to the city’s ‘Museum’ station, which was nearest to my Travelodge accommodation for my 4- night stay. Brimming with history, nature, culture, art, fashion, cuisine, design, the city is set next to miles of ocean coastline and sandy surf beaches and has many 'pearls' that sets it apart as one of the most beautiful cities on the planet -such as Sydney Opera House and the Sydney Harbour Bridge, two of the most iconic structures on the planet.
Of Sydney’s 4.6 million multi-ethnic population, 17% are of Asian origin. That night I wandered down to the Chinatown quarter which was a vibrant mix of neon lights, seedy massage parlours, bars, busy oriental restaurants and shops, and in darker corners, drunken beggars and homeless folk sleeping rough (including I noted sadly, several Aboriginals). I hurried back to the security of my hotel as an alcohol fuelled fight broke out nearby.

I was pleased to find a small kitchen in my hotel room, in which I could make some basic meals, as Australia was proving surprisingly expensive to eat out. Next day I found a Coles supermarket and bought some provisions for picnic lunches and evening meals, and felt more at home as a result. For me, having control over meal production makes me feel more secure and at ease in an unfamiliar place of temporary residence.Early the next morning, using the free 555 bus service, I got down to Circular Quay and the spectacular harbour with its ferries, iconic bridge and opera house. 

Sydney Opera House, designed by Danish architect Jorn Utzon, became one of my favourite buildings in the world, after a guided tour back in 1986, revealed the originality and aesthetic beauty of its shell-like abstract forms and inspirational setting upon the harbour. On this visit I was determined to see a performance, and booked to see Bizet’s opera ‘The Pearlfishers’ the following evening (the cheapest seat up in the gods!) I walked back through the beautiful Royal Botanic Gardens, appreciating the exotic plants and birds, to the Art gallery of New South Wales, which was in a fine neo-Classical building. The Sydney Biennial was on - Australia’s pre-eminent contemporary art event, and I focused on an engaging installation by John Wolseley relating to bushfires and their destructive force.  I really wanted to see more Aboriginal art, and was amazed to find that the theme of the current exhibition was called ‘HOME’!!! Apparently when the First Fleet landed in 1788 and laid claim to the land around Sydney Cove as the first penal colony, and specifically the art gallery location,  it was already the home of the Cadigal Eora people. This began the displacement and loss of homeland of the Aboriginal peoples, which escalated with the European settlement of Australia, and the rest as they say is history. Sadly I could not take photos and there was no catalogue of the exhibition, but many of the artefacts were highly politically charged and told of the impact of colonisation and the loss of home and traditional way of life that many Aboriginals feel. What I saw made a big impression and I made lots of notes to include in my planned lecture on Aboriginal art.

Taronga Zoo

Making an early start, I caught the ferry to this world class show-case of Australian animals, which is home to more than 4,000 animals in 50 recreated naturalistic environments, set against a stunning backdrop of Sydney Harbour.  The boat trip in itself was marvellous, giving photo-opportunities for fresh views of the city skyline, opera house and bridge, from the water, and the sun actually shone! It is winter here and quite cool and drizzly weather to date.  At the Zoo which was founded in 1916, I enjoyed getting up close to the hairy-nosed wombat and other indigenous animals from this ancient continent, including the crocodiles that I had seen on the Daintree Rainforest River trip. A chair-lift transported me back down to the ferry through the treetops of the zoo, giving birds’-eye aerial views of the animals below.

Sydney Opera House: The Pearlfishers

What a magical evening! I changed into my glad rags and sped down to the Opera House for the performance which began at 7.30pm. Night had descended and transformed the sites I had seen earlier in the day. The city lights reflected in the dark waters of the harbour, as I walked along the promenade to the venue, with many others. The building took on a different guise in the darkness, illuminated from within, and I felt on a high of excitement and anticipation as I ascended the carpeted staircases and took my seat at the top of the main concert hall. The orchestra struck up and the beautiful singing began and miraculously floated up to reach me in the ribs of the ‘shell’s’ lofty roof; with the gorgeous sets and costumes and intriguing storyline, I was transported into another time and place for the 2 and a half hour performance. I will always remember my night at the opera in Sydney…. one of the finest homes to this art form in the world.