Timeless Temple Treasures

Whilst in Bali, I visited several temples as they are the key to understanding the central role of religion in the lives of the people.  The first was a magnificent public village temple called Pura Puseh, in Batuan, in the Ubud region.  Visitors are welcome, but to observe temple etiquette I dressed in a sarong and happily made a donation. To enter, I had to pass through a towering split gate (the candi bentar) that represents the cosmic mountain split into the positive and negative forces. This entrance was guarded by a pair of ferocious looking demon statues who were draped in the black and white checked poleng fabric (symbolising the contrast and balance between good and bad spirits).  The colours yellow (prosperity) and white (holiness) also had a strong visual impact, in lengths of draped fabric and flags that rippled in the breeze, and decorative fringed parasols. The temple has been extensively restored in recent years and was a showcase for Balinese arts, crafts and building skills. I learnt about the traditional architectural features with their complex meanings, and the significance of the shrines and rituals that take place there. Fortunately an odalan (festival), was taking place. Queues of women waited patiently to present their colourful offerings of flowers and other materials, and the atmosphere was thick with incense and the rhythmic gamelan music played by the temple musicians in their rich costumes.  

 

 



 

Other temples I visited include Pura Taman Ayun, (‘vast garden’), a stunning moated complex with a physical design that symbolizes the Hindu world set in the cosmic sea.  To the faithful, the temple is believed to ensure the harmonious circulation of water – water, that is essential for life itself… flowing from the mountains to Bali’s ricefields, to the sea, and in turn,  back to the mountains, falling as rain. So, on this hot, sunny day, in this place that was conceived way back in the 18^th century to give thanks to the gods for the vital element of water, it was fitting that I should feel the power of the place… entranced by the beauty of the inner moats with their exotic lotus flowers,  and the magical reflections of  the beautiful temple architecture – most notably the striking Meru towers. The towers function as shrines, and their design symbolizes some of Bali’s sacred mountains ( believed to be the homes of the gods). I learnt from my guide that their intriguing sculptural roof forms consist of 3, 5, 7, 9 or 11 tiers, depending on the importance of the deity, and that the dark fibre used for the roof is a product of the sugar palm. (I realised that my hotel’s ornate garden lanterns that I plan to recreate for my own garden back home, have been inspired by the design of the Meru towers, and also have roofs made from the same material.)   As I gaze at the temple cats that have made this place ‘home’ since the beginning, and watch the exquisite offerings tossed by pilgrims into the waters of the moat silently drifting along, caught by the gentle currents, I have a sense that this tranquil place, created by the hand of man,  is a little piece of paradise, and a visionary setting for all visitors to make a connection with the spiritual world.

 

 

Another interesting visit was to the Pura Dalem temple in the forests near Kedaton, which is home to several hundred long-tailed macaque monkeys that are indigenous to the island. The monkeys are an obvious draw for tourists like me, but to the Balinese, they are traditionally regarded as holy and sacred, as in their ancient mythology, the King Subali took the form of a monkey, and temple carvings and masks worn in dance performances often feature monkey-headed deities (see my Balinese carved wooden Monkey Mask in the Understanding Art studio).



As my time in Bali drew to a close, I had two more temple treasures to cherish, on a visit that stands out as an unforgettable finale to my trip. Fortuitously it was a full moon on that last night, with the promise of a special festival in which many Balinese people were to be involved. And so I joined hundreds of pilgrims who had travelled far and wide, to converge on the world famous Pura Tanah Lot, that dates back to the 16^th century. The setting is spectacular as the temple is only accessible at low tide, and visitors have to make their way over the rocks on foot, across to the small peninsular that reaches 100 yards into the ocean. In the opposite direction was another smaller temple – Pura Batu Bolong, elevated on a natural stone archway that has been eroded over millions of years by the sea.  I arrived just as the sun was setting, and watched in silence as the line of silhouetted pilgrims threw their offerings into the water, to be consumed by the crashing waves below. Sights and sounds of this wonderful island, that I will treasure in my memory forevermore.....