Monday 29 July 2013

DAY 5: THE BLACK LOCH OF CASTLE KENNEDY CASTS ITS DARK SPELL ON RUSKIN!

Thursday 25TH July

What a magnificent day this was! A dramatic thunder storm in the night had freshened the atmosphere, but the blue skies and gentle sunshine made a welcome return for my visit to Castle Kennedy Gardens, a 40 minute drive inland. A salad lunch was enjoyed overlooking distant views of the rolling countryside of the outer reaches of the 75 acre estate that was the inspiration of the 2nd Earl of Stair in the 1730’s. I immediately detected the influence of landscape designer ‘Capability Brown’ in the way the natural features such as water, hillsides and grazing flocks of farm animals are visually ‘borrowed’ and integrated into the formality of the planned heart of the gardens through tantalising glimpses afforded at the ends of straight avenues of trees, gateways opened up in walls, and elevated vantage points. The Romantic ruins of Castle Kennedy, built in the 16th century, but burnt down in 1730, provide a wonderful picturesque motif within the formally landscaped grounds. Two natural fresh water lochs, The White Loch and The Black Loch divide the estate, and in the 18th century an army of men with horses and carts were used to mould and move the landscape into its what you see today.  One attraction I had to see was the famous 160 year old avenue of Monkey Puzzle Trees, planted with seed collected by the famous botanical explorer, Joseph Hooker, and I was not disappointed. (The Monkey Puzzle Tree was the subject of a project done with my students). Their towering canopies appeared to claw at the clouds above with their silhouetted spikey fingers, and the mature tree trunks had wise old ‘eyes’ that peered out, where once branches sprouted, and seemed to be watching Ruskin and I on our promenade along the avenue. These Chilean pine trees were under planted with rhododendrons and azaleas that must give a splendid effect when in flower, and I resolve to come back to see these unique and inspiring specimens again. Other memorable features were the giant 2 acre circular pond, filled with rare Victorian water lilies, and the spectacular vistas of trees leading to glimpses of the lochs and focal points, including the elegant Scottish Baronial Gothic styled family seat of Lochinch Castle. Ruskin’s ‘lowlight’ was his swim in The Black Loch, which was cut short by an untimely inhalation of water into his wee lungs which left him trembling and uncharacteristically subdued for the next few hours….
 
My planned excursion that evening to the RSBP reserve of The Mull of Galloway, Scotland’s most southerly point, was aborted en route, as a thick pea-soup Scotch mist dropped down into the narrow lanes I was endeavouring to drive along, and Ruskin’s demeanour became even more dour…..

1 comment:

  1. Fran Landreth Strong1 August 2013 at 19:03

    wow, looks like a great adventure Julia! but poor Ruskin, hope he's feeling better x

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