I was one of a party of 4 who experienced an intimate and fascinating guided tour of the Gion area of the city, which is famous for its Geisha and tea houses, although both can be elusive. One of my favourite films is ‘Memoirs of a Geisha’ and I hoped to see some of the locations where scenes were shot – and I was not to be disappointed! Our local guide knew exactly where the hostels and well-disguised tea houses are located down the narrow alleyways, and pointed them out to us. Imagine my excitement when one of the shuttered doors flew open and out dashed a young apprentice Geisha (Maiko) in the most gorgeous kimono, hair and iconic make-up that I had known for so long from Japanese prints. Before I could grab my camera, she had vanished into the night. But I later saw another chance in the street.
We went to a local theatrical performance of traditional Japanese art forms which was very illuminating and consisted of Koto - Japanese harp playing, Kado- the ancient Japanese art of flower arranging reflecting the Buddhist relationship with natural forms, Gagaku- court music, Kyogen- an ancient comic play performed as an interlude for Noh plays, Bunraku- a rather dark puppet play developed over a period of more than 12 centuries, and with a grand finale of Kyomai- a Kyoto style dance that was performed by a local Geisha in beautiful attire to haunting traditional music. This restrained and graceful dance would have been seen at the Imperial Court.
After the show, we walked through the streets taking in the unique surroundings and learnt more about the job of the Geisha from our guide. Although this centuries old profession is in decline, there are surprisingly still around 100 in Kyoto, and a fully trained Geisha can earn £30,000 for one session with a client, where she is expected to entertain him in numerous ways, including the tea ceremony and verbal repartee. The oldest one in Kyoto still working is apparently 91! Home for the apprentice Maiko and Geiko is a hostel run by a ‘mother’ who takes a large cut of any earnings.
We then guided to a 150 year old traditional Japanese house, that was hidden away in a corner of Gion, to experience an authentic Japanese meal with a family . We were given a warm welcome, leaving our shoes at the door of course, and were served a Zen tempura dinner, consisting of deep fried vegetables and soya products in a crispy batter, served with a tasty horseradish dipping sauce and rice. We ate with chopsticks and drank from the bowls of miso soup with our lips. The way the food was served and eaten was ritualistic and linked to Zen Buddhist practice, as our host explained.
The Tea Ceremony
The highlight of the night was our own personal Tea Ceremony, which was something I will never forget. The daughter of the family guided us through the long, narrow house to a waiting room, where we had to kneel until called by the chimes of bell. We then proceeded through a small but enchanting illuminated garden, across stepping stones and around stunted trees, rocks and trickling water falls, to the Tea House. It was made from wood and bamboo, with paper walls that glowed in the darkness from the lamplight within. To enter, we all had to crawl through a small door at ground level that was about 1 metre square (symbolic we were told, as all classes of Japanese society were welcomed to the tea ceremony but had to get down to the same level; the Samurai could only enter if they left their swords outside as the tea house is a place of peace where everyone is equal). The gracious tea mistress welcomed us dressed in a fine silk kimono, and made us tea using a very specific ritualistic method and special utensils and precious porcelain bowls. She had spent many years learning her art. The sense of calm, simplicity, refinement and restraint was overwhelming, and I felt very privileged to have taken part in this ceremony, that dates back to the 15th century.
We were then taken back to the house for a guided tour around the simply furnished rooms. Family heirlooms going back generations were much admired, and of special note was the family shrine and altar where they prayed to the small statue of Buddha, burnt incense and made offerings of rice and other food items each day.
I went to bed that night with my mind still reeling with the richness of the sights and sounds that I had experienced…and the Homes from Home I had discovered in the backstreets of Gion.
Good chop stick technique Julia! Enjoyed reading about the tea houses only wish we could replace Starbucks and Costa with something like a British equivalent of a community owned tea house, serving the finest herbal teas sourced from Croydon - and with demure local hussies waiting at table.
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to hearing about the contrast in Queensland -
From Fran and David
Thanks for the reply Fran. Yes, it's a totally different world here in Oz- more in later posts although Internet is not so available - I've found a local library this morning! Looking forward to you showing John and I the local talent in Amsterdam in the Autumn soon. Have you had your results yet? Much love J and J
DeleteLooking forward to seeing the next update! Yes definitely excited for you to visit Amsterdam! Have got my room now and flights are booked, it's getting close. Yes had my results, got 68, 2 marks off a First - really pleased with that, just a couple of marks that brought my overall down a bit but had some good individual grades so I'm pleased!
ReplyDeleteSpeak soon xx
Hi Julia, I was fascinated to hear about your experience of a real life geisha- something which I only know from the iconic Japanese woodblock prints! After reading your blog, I found an early 20th century photograph which purported to be of a geisha, and drew it for you. I say ‘purported’ because it didn’t look like the image of a geisha as they are typically portrayed: her hair, makeup and dress were very simple. Once I began to do more research, I found my answer.
ReplyDeleteI learnt that as a geisha’s career progresses, her appearance altars too; this includes her hair, dress and makeup. Maiko (young apprentice geisha) appear heavily made-up. Their face is covered in a thick white base (rice powder), with black and red accents around the eyes and eyebrows, and is completed with red lipstick. After a maiko has been working for three years, her makeup becomes much more subdued. This is because she is seen as mature, and can now show more of her own natural beauty. Though, sometimes even mature geisha will wear the heavy white make up, but only for formal occasions.
In terms of dress, geisha always wear kimono. Similar to the treatment of their makeup, maiko wear very colourful and extravagant kimono and obi (a sash). As the geisha become older, their dress becomes much more subdued in pattern and style- even the obi is tied using a much simpler knot!
I never realised that the whole appearance of geisha change as they become older and more experienced. There are so many subtle changes too, such as the lengthening of their eyebrows. In conclusion, all this tells me that the geisha in my drawing is clearly one which is very mature!
Ohayo gozaimasu Juila
ReplyDeleteMaiko kanjo wa totemo kirei desu na! Mainchi ni Geisha wa kimono kiru :) Kyoto shashin no sugoi ^^
ku-gatsu wa nihon ga ikimasu. Totemo koufun shiteiru yo.
Hi Juila
I find your page on Kyoto really interesting and informative. Your pictures of Kyoto are really amazing.
Geisha’s are very elegant Japanese women; they train very hard to become the best in their district. In Kyoto there are five geisha districts, Gion Kōbu, Pontochō and Kamishichiken have the highest status. It is where you will find the most expensive Geisha’s to be.
The training to becoming a Geisha has changed a lot over the years as Maiko’s can’t start their training until the ages of eighteen but only in Kyoto can they train younger. It used to be that the Geisha training started around the ages of four but now girls go to normal school until they are teenagers and they can then make the decision to train to become a geisha. The one thing that hasn't changed is that Geisha’s still live in traditional geisha houses called okiya, particularly during their apprenticeship. Many experienced geisha are successful enough to choose to live independently.
If you ever go back to Japan I really recommend going to a traditional Japanese bakery, where they sell Wagashi which are Japanese sweets that are served with tea. Japan has a lot in common with France when it comes to perfecting their cakes and sweets, it’s like an art form in itself.
I have always been fascinated with Japanese culture and traditions, with the tea ceremony being one of the most curious to me. It sounds simply captivating from how you have described it. The mental imagery of the well-kept picturesque garden, almost like something I would expect to find myself looking upon in an old Kung-Fu film or a silk painting. The amount of metaphorical meaning within the ceremony and its practice is outstanding! My personal favourite is how you must “crawl through a small door at ground level that was about 1 metre square (symbolic we were told, as all classes of Japanese society were welcomed to the tea ceremony but had to get down to the same level; the Samurai could only enter if they left their swords outside as the tea house is a place of peace where everyone is equal).” This sums up perfectly my fascination with Japanese culture and how simple and reverent they are about even the small things.
ReplyDeleteOn further investigation I found that the first documented evidence of tea in Japan is from the 9th century, when it was taken by the Buddhist monk called Eichū on his return from China. Eichū personally prepared and served sencha (unground Japanese green tea) to Emperor Saga who was on an excursion in Karasaki (in present Shiga Prefecture) in the year 815. By imperial order in the year 816, tea plantations began to be cultivated in the Kinki region of Japan. However, the interest in tea in Japan faded after this
Hello Julia Strong, it’s Shannon Doherty.
ReplyDeleteToday I’ve been looking at your home to home travels blog. I must say its superb! I especially love the part about the Asian cultures. Since having Asian family members, from Thailand and the Philippines it was nice to learn about another Asian culture.
I was amazed when I saw the pictures that you took in the temples and the pictures of the shrines. The picture of the Daibutsu was amazing as it showed the scale of the statue and the scale of how religion/shrines/blessings are a big part of their culture. I bet that when walking in there people get a huge sense of peace and some sort of calming feeling. Did you get that feeling? Or did you feel something else?
I can’t even begin to tell you how much I loved reading the section about the Geishas. As a child I always wanted to become a geisha for several reasons...
I particularly like how they all wear the same style of makeup as to me this is a sign of equality and to me this is key. I also like how Geishas are not submissive and subservient, but in fact they are some of the most financially and emotionally successful and strongest women in Japan. Finally I love how the whole geisha tradition has carried on throughout the years and how they carry on this tradition without changing it. Do you agree? What are your views on geishas?
Hello Julia,
ReplyDeleteI've just been looking at some of your blog and I have found it quite a good read. Seeing those damp Balinese houses made me realise about how lucky I should be to live in a cleaner, more stable home. The bathrooms in those houses are particularly interesting because you can't sit down whilst using the toilets. I won't go too much into detail but on the clean side, I have also found those traditional Japanese houses beautifully designed and built (especially the sliding doors). I would definitely like to live in those houses because they look so clean, peaceful and colourful.
On a whole this is a really nice blog, the images really do stand out very well and it did help give me some interesting facts and some inspiration.
Hello Julia I have just been reading your blog and I am fascinated by what you have experienced you are so lucky. Did you find it hard to eat with chopsticks?. I find it tricky to use them. I am really into theatre and art within the theatre and so I have researched Japanese theatre and this is what I found out.There are four major forms of traditional Japanese theatre that are famous around the world. These are Noh, Kyogen, Kabuki, and Bunraku, or puppet theatre Noh theatre, also called Nogaku, is a form of musical drama. The Japanese started performing Noh in the fourteenth century. Most of the characters in these plays are concealed by masks, and men play both the male and female roles. The subject matter consists of a few historical stories.
ReplyDelete