Impressions of three of Kyoto's grandest homes

My first full day in Kyoto, the former ancient capital of Japan from 794AD until 1868, when the Emperor moved his entourage and power base to Tokyo, took in three of its greatest gems, on a guided tour. The homes were fascinating both for their architecture and history.

Nijo Castle  (UNESCO World heritage site)

The fortress-like entrance with moat gives the impression of a
use for defence purposes but it was actually a residence

Visitors have to remove their shoes before entering

Built in 1603 for Tokugawa Ieyasu, who was the first Shogun of the Edo period whose elite Samurai guards protected him and it seems had the right to kill any supected enemies with their fearsome swords. A clever device that the castle is famous for is an early intruder alarm, called the 'nightingale floor', which alerted the guards to approaching assasins. Metal slivers were inserted under the floorboards to let off loud chirping sounds when trodden on, and work as well today as when they were first installed. I guess you can regard this as an early form of our modern day burglar alarm!

This entrance has intricate carvings of birds and plants over the
doorway created with a breath-taking degree of realism and skill

I was sadly not allowed to take photos inside, but this is what the interior of Shogun's grand chamber looked like - the feudal lords are shown paying their respects to the Shogun. The breathtaking wall paintings done on top of gold leaf over paper, were done by Kano Tanyu, and still in wonderful condition considering they were created over 400 years ago. Imagery included life sized pine trees, tigers, cranes, panthers, wild geese, herons, flitting swallows and elegant peacocks.

Kinkakuji Temple (The Golden Pavilion)

The second place I visited was built as a retirement home for the third Ashikaga Shogun Yoshimitsu, in the 14th century, although the version I saw was an exact reconstruction from the 1950's, because the original was burnt down by a resident rebellious monk, who had the crazy notion that it would look even more beautiful on fire! The arson event is dramatised in the novel by Mishima Yukio 'The Golden Pavilion'. The home was magical, almost like an illusionistic scenery painting, appearing to float above the lake it was set upon. The graceful three storey structure is totally covered in gold leaf (400,000 sheets measuring 10cms square - 6 kilograms of 24 carat - that is some paint job!)

A bronze phoenix sits on the very top of the roof

The stroll around the gardens was inspirational - a masterpiece of the Muromachi period garden design, which aims to achieve a harmonious interplay of its various components such as evergreen plants, water and rocks, that echo the natural landscape, and blend imperceptively into the background of Mount Kinugasa. Somewhere that I could certainly see myself making my own paradise retirement home!

The Imperial Palace and Park (UNESCO World heritage site)

I was very lucky to gain access to this impressive fortress-like former home of the Emperor of Japan, until he moved the capital from Kyoto to Tokyo. It is strictly run by a government agency with visiting strictly controlled. We were closely monitored by slightly sinister guards, and moved along swiftly from each spectacle to the next, with hardly time to take in the detail. Lots of frantic photography! It was officially last used for the coronation of the Emperor in 1915, and the thrones are kept there until needed in Tokyo. There were many impressive buildings in the palace complex, although we were not permitted inside. As with Nijo castle, the structures were built from Japanese Cypress hardwood and dark in colour, and the walls were wooden screens with contrasting translucent Japanese paper infills - these screens were exposed in the day to let light through, but covered at night with sliding doors for protection. The roofs were covered with either ornate ceramic tiles originating from China, or another traditional material that looked like dark brown thatch from a distance but that was actually composed of intricate layers of the bark of the Japanese cypress tree (a highly skilled method that only a few workers in Japan can create today). Here are just a few images to give you an impression. Many more to share with you on my return!

The wall paintings show images of tigers - symbol of the strength
of the Emperor.

The Shishinden ceremonial building where the enthronement of the
Emperor and Empress used to take place. Set amidst a 'garden' of white raked
gravel, the orange and cherry tree either side the entrance symbolise
 longevity and  respect for the emperor.

Traditional roofing method using cypress tree bark layers that
has to be replaced after 40 years but is a fast dying out craft.

The 16 petal chrysanthemum is the symbol of the Emperor of
Japan, seen here on the decorative ends of the ceramic roof tile

Tomorrow I have more adventures planned including hopefully my first glimpse of a real Geisha!