The Grand Finale of my visit to Japan

Todai-Ji: Home to Nara’s Great  Buddha

My last full day in Japan took me via a train ride to Nara, to see the temple of Todai-Ji, the Nara Museum and the Shinto Kasuga Grand Shrine.  Nara was for a brief period in the 8^th century AD, the original capital of the country, and one of the most splendid cities in Asia. The highlight of Todai-Ji is the Great Buddha Hall- the largest wooden structure in the world (yes, really!)  Its purpose was to hold an enormous bronze statue of Buddha, and so make the city the centre  of Buddhism in Japan, and to this day, a magnet for devout followers and tourists alike.  I can see why millions flock here each year – the temple complex and gigantic sculptures have to be seen to be believed. ‘Big’ really is ‘beautiful’ at Nara and the visual impact of the huge scale of the artefacts is surreal and physically and emotionally thrilling. 

 I had to approach the temple through a towering monolithic entrance archway, having promenaded along a straight, wide road for quite some distance,  that had led me through a picturesque deer park with lakes and gardens. The 1,000 resident tame deer are an important feature too, revered  (and pampered with food tit-bits by visitors like me), because they are regarded as messengers of the gods. The moment when I finally saw the Great Hall was one of those rare thrills in your life that you can count on one hand - literally breath-taking!  I was amazed at the enormous scale and magnificence of the richly carved structure, which had been extensively restored over the centuries, following earthquakes, wars, arson, pests and the ravages of the elements and weather (tropical rainstorms punctuated my visit, adding to the drama!) The Great Buddha who looks out from the darkness, is 16 metres (53 feet) high, and weighs 170 tons, and is a miracle of workmanship and artistry. Its colossal form was cast in eight stages, over 3 years, and to give you an impression of the scale, when the figure is given a dusting, 4 or 5 monks stand in the Buddha’s upturned palm! His head, which fell off during an earthquake in 855AD, almost touches the ceiling.  But that was not all …I was also staggered to see other huge sculptures either side and at the back of the Great Buddha hall- 2 golden female figures of Kokuzo Bosatsu, and Niyorin Kannon Bosatsu  seated to either side of the Buddha, and 2  terrifying  guardian deities, protecting the Buddha, that towered over me at 27 feet tall. These were carved out of wood and the degree of skill and realism was outstanding - unbelievable that they had survived from 1203. I lit incense sticks and made offerings of coins alongside other visitors, to pay my own respects to such a holy place, and give thanks for an experience that, over the centuries must have gripped millions of others too – Todai-Ji, a fitting home for some of the most impressive sculptures I have ever been fortunate enough to have seen.

Shinto Kasuga Grand Shrine

Later, embracing the warm tropical rainstorms, I followed the long woodland walk in Nara Park to  search out its Shinto temple, which was also unforgettable.

'Driving rain' by Hiroshige

Set along the route, and amidst the trees were 3000 carved stone lanterns, all donated by ordinary people as spiritual tributes to their ancestors. Many were covered in moss, lichen and undergrowth, almost symbolically being taken back by nature and becoming part of the wood itself. Of seemingly infinite variety each one seemed to have its own sense of life-force and distinct character – no two were alike, and yet many were arranged in matching pairs.

Ascending many steps, I turned a corner, and there from the gloom of the wood, shone out the vividly painted, vermillion temple. The vibrant vermillion colour is synonymous with the Shinto religion and echoed in the robes of the priest, monks and nuns whom I caught glimpses of as they hurried from prayer or some other duty. This building is also a UNESCO World Heritage site, although originally a private family shrine dating back to 710AD. The lantern theme continued around the walkways but these were made from metal and suspended in rows from the roofs in long rows. For certain religious festivals the lanterns in the woods and temple are lit and the effect must be an impressive spectacle.  

Shinto is Japan’s oldest and own religion, existing alongside Buddhism, and its core concept is that deities preside over all things in Nature, be they  living, dead or inanimate. For followers of the Shinto faith this place is one of the foremost Homes of their religion and from my visit I came to a greater understanding of, and connection with their beliefs.